If you care for land hermit crabs, at MINIMUM you will need at least the following supplies.
1. Plastic or Glass Cage with NEARLY Air-Tight Lid
Only this set-up can lock in the 50-70% humidity that a crab needs to keep its gills moist, enabling it to breathe. If necessary, add extra water dishes to the cage to increase the humidity. Lift lid twice a day to replenish oxygen supply or insert a full pad of Post-It notes between the lid and tank to create a tiny air vent that should not deplete the humidity. I strongly recommend that you invest in a $6 humidity gauge to monitor the humidity, as your tank atmosphere can flucuate to dangerously low levels quite unnoticeably.
2. Water Dish
Select a non-metallic dish deep enough for wading, but shallow enough to prevent drowning. Use dechlorinated water, since tap water's chlorine can damage a crab's gills. I personally recommend the use of "rock" dishes that have a texturized surface both inside AND outside. Texture ensures that smaller crabs will be able to easily crawl in and out. Many texturized rock dishes are smooth inside; therefore, search carefully for a good one!
3. Food Dish
Without one, cages can get messy and moldy quickly. Clean the dish thoroughly (but without soap) every time you replace uneaten food with fresh food. Opposite my advice for a water dish, I recommend a food dish that has a smooth interior. I recommend this because texturized interiors tend to collect food debris.
4. Hermit Crab Food
Commercial hermit crab food often contains essential nutrients that crabs need, so it should be available to your crabs at all times. Beware of commerical food that is light tan in color. This typically means it is made primarily of corn and wheat, which is not a "round" enough diet. Choose a green powdered form which is healthier and easiest to eat. I personally recommend Florida Marine Research (FMR) brand. The yellow FMR dried fruit treat is a wonderful suppliment. Should you offer a treat of fresh fruits or veggies, remove uneaten bits after 24 hours to prevent bacteria and fungal growth. Uneaten fresh meat should be removed after only a few hours.
5. Additional Shells
Purchase a few shells with circular openings that are 1/4 inch larger than your crab's current shell opening. As he grows, your crab will need a bigger shell. For a very detailed look at proper shell purchasing and hermit crab shell switching, click on the "Shell Shopping" link.
6. Substrate
The material in the base of your cage should be something into which your hermit crab can bury for protection during the molting growth process. Lightly moistened coconut fiber makes for excellent bedding and a nice snack! Sold as "Eco Earth" by Zoo Med, it is available at most pet stores.
Sand is another substrate option, and it is easily buried into. The disadvantage to sand is that tiny grains of sand can often lodge inside hermit crabs' joints. If you do choose to use sand, remember that beach sand contains bacteria and mites, so it should be mircowaved or baked prior to its use. Toy box sand is a clean and convenient alternative, and 50-pound bags can be found for under $3 at most hardware stores. Calci-Sand, although expensive, will also provide a source of calcium for your crabs.
Avoid using wood chips, corn cob bedding, or paper as substrate, since these absorbent materials can quickly dry out your crab. Aquarium gravel can be dangerous also since gravel bits can sometimes lodge inside a hermit crab's shell.
Keep the substrate dry to avoid bacteria growth, but keep it deep enough so your crab can bury itself. The trick is to keep the substrate dry but the air humid.
7. Saltwater
You may need to provide your hermit crab with access to saltwater. Click on the "Drinking Saltwater" link to the left to see if your hermit qualifies. Synthetic sea salt (such as Instant Ocean) is available at most pet stores.
8. Water Dechlorinizer
Tap water should be treated with a simple dechlorinizer to remove the chlorine which could harm the gills of your hermit crab.
1. Plastic or Glass Cage with NEARLY Air-Tight Lid
Only this set-up can lock in the 50-70% humidity that a crab needs to keep its gills moist, enabling it to breathe. If necessary, add extra water dishes to the cage to increase the humidity. Lift lid twice a day to replenish oxygen supply or insert a full pad of Post-It notes between the lid and tank to create a tiny air vent that should not deplete the humidity. I strongly recommend that you invest in a $6 humidity gauge to monitor the humidity, as your tank atmosphere can flucuate to dangerously low levels quite unnoticeably.
2. Water Dish
Select a non-metallic dish deep enough for wading, but shallow enough to prevent drowning. Use dechlorinated water, since tap water's chlorine can damage a crab's gills. I personally recommend the use of "rock" dishes that have a texturized surface both inside AND outside. Texture ensures that smaller crabs will be able to easily crawl in and out. Many texturized rock dishes are smooth inside; therefore, search carefully for a good one!
3. Food Dish
Without one, cages can get messy and moldy quickly. Clean the dish thoroughly (but without soap) every time you replace uneaten food with fresh food. Opposite my advice for a water dish, I recommend a food dish that has a smooth interior. I recommend this because texturized interiors tend to collect food debris.
4. Hermit Crab Food
Commercial hermit crab food often contains essential nutrients that crabs need, so it should be available to your crabs at all times. Beware of commerical food that is light tan in color. This typically means it is made primarily of corn and wheat, which is not a "round" enough diet. Choose a green powdered form which is healthier and easiest to eat. I personally recommend Florida Marine Research (FMR) brand. The yellow FMR dried fruit treat is a wonderful suppliment. Should you offer a treat of fresh fruits or veggies, remove uneaten bits after 24 hours to prevent bacteria and fungal growth. Uneaten fresh meat should be removed after only a few hours.
5. Additional Shells
Purchase a few shells with circular openings that are 1/4 inch larger than your crab's current shell opening. As he grows, your crab will need a bigger shell. For a very detailed look at proper shell purchasing and hermit crab shell switching, click on the "Shell Shopping" link.
6. Substrate
The material in the base of your cage should be something into which your hermit crab can bury for protection during the molting growth process. Lightly moistened coconut fiber makes for excellent bedding and a nice snack! Sold as "Eco Earth" by Zoo Med, it is available at most pet stores.
Sand is another substrate option, and it is easily buried into. The disadvantage to sand is that tiny grains of sand can often lodge inside hermit crabs' joints. If you do choose to use sand, remember that beach sand contains bacteria and mites, so it should be mircowaved or baked prior to its use. Toy box sand is a clean and convenient alternative, and 50-pound bags can be found for under $3 at most hardware stores. Calci-Sand, although expensive, will also provide a source of calcium for your crabs.
Avoid using wood chips, corn cob bedding, or paper as substrate, since these absorbent materials can quickly dry out your crab. Aquarium gravel can be dangerous also since gravel bits can sometimes lodge inside a hermit crab's shell.
Keep the substrate dry to avoid bacteria growth, but keep it deep enough so your crab can bury itself. The trick is to keep the substrate dry but the air humid.
7. Saltwater
You may need to provide your hermit crab with access to saltwater. Click on the "Drinking Saltwater" link to the left to see if your hermit qualifies. Synthetic sea salt (such as Instant Ocean) is available at most pet stores.
8. Water Dechlorinizer
Tap water should be treated with a simple dechlorinizer to remove the chlorine which could harm the gills of your hermit crab.
